Year End Vacation Part 2- Assam

This post is in continuation with my earlier post on Shillong. We landed at Assam because direct flights to Meghalaya were not available. So after a comfortable flight with some turbulence, we finally touched down at Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport in Guwahati. 

I firmly believe that an airport is a city's calling card, its first impression. And let me tell you, what was Guwahati's first impression? Vibrant, colourful, and bursting with life – much like the flight itself!

As you navigate the maze of corridors towards the exit, you are greeted by a delightful assault on the senses. Local art spills out from every corner—think intricate bamboo idols and masks decked out in traditional Assamese attire: the iconic white and red Gamcha and the graceful Mekhala Chador. The colours are a feast for the eyes, a riot of hues that perfectly mirror the city's energetic spirit. I am already hooked.

After soaking in the sights at the airport, we readied ourselves for a five-hour car ride to Shillong, our first stop. Bijoy would be our driver for the duration of our trip. 

So, I embarked on a road trip to Meghalaya, blissfully unaware of the 5-7 hour marathon that awaited me. But hey, Northeastern India was calling, and I was answering! The initial hours were a sensory feast – vibrant colours, unfamiliar sounds, and aromas. Then, the inevitable happened: I succumbed to the lullaby of the road and drifted off to sleep. Humans have an internal alarm clock, an amazing invisible thing. I jolted awake as we approached the Assam border. And then I saw it: a glorious sign proclaiming "Welcome to Assam." I turned to the driver, utterly confused. "We're in Meghalaya, right?" I asked. He chuckled. "Yep, we're driving along the Meghalaya side of the road. If you want to be in Assam, just cross the street!" My jaw dropped. Apparently, the state line was literally just across the road! We were zooming past so quickly I couldn't even snap a picture (though you can see a similar image in Vibav Verma's post – check it out here!).

https://medium.com/design-bootcamp/north-east-trip-design-observations-and-things-i-learnt-1936b843ca71

After a week at Shillong, we were back in Assam, Kaziranga. 

Shillong was a week of misty mountains and musical evenings, but let's be honest, the real highlight of my North East adventure was the food. After surviving on questionable hotel fare, I finally found salvation at Anurrag Dhaaba, a roadside oasis of Assamese culinary delights. Forget Instagrammable plates; I was too busy inhaling the aroma of the Baingun Baaja (eggplant fry) to even think about photos. Honestly, the potato fry and raw banana fry were equally divine. It's no wonder bananas are a religion in the Northeast – they're practically a food group!

Kaziranga itself was a whirlwind of jeep rides and elephant encounters. The sheer scale of the reserve blew me away. It's not just a jungle; it's a vast ecosystem where humans and wildlife have coexisted for generations. It's a reminder that conservation is not just about fences and restrictions, but about finding a way for people and animals to thrive together. Now, if only they served that Assamese thali on the Jeep safaris...

Kaziranga. The name conjures images of one-horned rhinos, vast grasslands, and yes, elephant rides. While I was initially thrilled at the prospect of exploring this incredible sanctuary from atop these gentle giants, a pang of guilt quickly set in. 

Don't get me wrong, these elephants were clearly well-cared for. But seeing these magnificent creatures, the epitome of grace and power, reduced to a mode of transportation for tourists felt… wrong. It was like renting a Ferrari to go to the grocery store. I constantly battled the urge to apologize, assuring the elephant I'd gladly walk. Ultimately, I understand that these elephants are domesticated and cannot be released back into the wild. Perhaps, by supporting these rides, I was contributing to their upkeep. But let's be honest, it was a deeply conflicted joyride.

Okay, I'll admit it. I've always been a sucker for those classic National Geographic shots: the sun setting over the African savanna, a lone acacia tree silhouetted against the sky, and maybe a majestic elephant reaching for a branch.  But let me tell you, nothing, nothing, could have prepared me for Kaziranga. Every jeep ride, every sighting,  – my heart was doing a Bollywood-style tap dance in my chest. It was exhilarating, humbling, and utterly unforgettable. Kaziranga: where reality surpassed even my wildest National Geographic fantasies.

Image courtesy Pixabay

The rides were unforgettable. Early mornings, the air crisp, the sun just peeking over the horizon. The world was a symphony of nature, a far cry from the usual human noise. During these long drives, I felt a profound connection to the universe, a stillness that words can't capture. We encountered a multitude of rhinos, some curious, others more eager to shoo us away. Elephants, barasinghas, monkeys – the wildlife was a constant source of wonder. And then there was the rhino that played peek-a-boo with us – I tried to capture that mischievous glint in my camera, but the memory is far more vivid. Kaziranga wasn't just a safari; it was a spiritual awakening.

Though renowned for its tigers, this incredible reserve offers so much more. Beyond the thrilling glimpses of rhinos and elephants, I was captivated by the natural wonders scattered throughout. Two trees, in particular, left a lasting impression. The first, a testament to the raw power of nature, boasted an unusual growth, almost like a tumour, that locals believe has been developing over centuries.

According to the locals, this is a tree with a tumour that has been growing over the years.

Then there was the "Tiger Claw Mark Tree," a legend whispered among the guides. Supposedly, tigers use this tree to sharpen their claws, leaving behind a unique pattern of markings. Whether myth or reality, it added a touch of intrigue to the already magical landscape.

It was a truly fulfilling visit, leaving me with a deep appreciation for the wonders of the natural world and a burning desire to return and hopefully, finally, catch a glimpse of those elusive tigers. Kaziranga exceeded all expectations. 

The park surprised me with its hidden gems. One such gem was the Orchid Park, a treasure trove of Assam's natural and cultural heritage.

The Orchid Park offered a delightful mix of experiences. I wandered through a bamboo museum, marvelled at traditional musical instruments, and even climbed a treehouse! But the true highlight was the Assamese food – a symphony of flavours made with local ingredients.

The park's cultural show was equally captivating. A young host, brimming with pride for her state's traditions, showcased vibrant dance and music. It was a heartwarming display of cultural heritage without a hint of nationalism.

Finally, the Orchidarium itself was a revelation. Usually, I find them a bit monotonous, but this one was different. Our enthusiastic guide, whose name escapes me (mea culpa!), started with a charming introduction in Hindi. He then led us on an enchanting walk, revealing the quirky wonders of orchids – a testament to Mother Nature's playful creativity.

The Orchidarium itself was a revelation. Our guide, whose name I unfortunately forgot (I wish him all the best!), was incredibly enthusiastic. He led us on an enchanting walk, revealing the quirky wonders of orchids – a testament to Mother Nature's playful creativity.

Some of the most captivating flowers I encountered are featured in the accompanying pictures.

Assam captivated me with its lush beauty and vibrant culture. But the most profound experience was at the Kamakya Temple. Legend has it that the temple's power chooses its devotees. You may reach it, but entry to the sanctum is at the goddess's discretion.

Our flight was unexpectedly preponed, throwing our plans into chaos. Despite the panic, we persevered. The wait was agonizing, but at 1 PM, we were granted darshan – a surreal and humbling experience.

Earlier, a surprise stop at the Mritunjay Temple in Nagaon, shaped like a Shivalinga, strengthened our resolve to visit Kamakya the following day. It was a powerful reminder of the spiritual forces at play.

This trip to Assam, culminating in the unexpected grace of Kamakya, was an unforgettable end to the year.

To read about my experiences at Shillong click on the link below.

https://cleanslate-tabularasa.blogspot.com/2025/01/year-end-vacation-shillong-beyond.html